Wednesday, April 13th, 2011

Salvation Mountain

Inside Salvation Mountain

Leonard and Mike

Hitchhiking.
Since the 2007 movie Into the Wild, I had been meaning to make a trip out to Salvation Mountain in hopes of seeing the strange wonder and meeting Leonard Knight. I decided to take a day off this week to spend sometime in the California desert with a nice morning hike and climb in Joshua Tree National Park. I had thought about going as far as the Salton Sea… and when I had completed my hike I decided there was enough daylight to get down there in hopes of finally making my Pilgrimage to Salvation Mountain.
My phone was dead by the time I reached the town of Niland, CA. I was alone, and a bit nervous as the sun begin to hang low in the desert sky while I drove through an intensely dilapidating and an extreme poverty stricken area. I drove up and down the main street of Niland thinking somehow that Salvation Mountain was just going to jump out at me… After my second pass on an almost deserted road, I saw a hitchiker who was waving me down for a ride. I slowed to a stop and asked him where he wanted to go, and he replied ‘the slabs.’ I immediately remembered from the movie that ‘the slabs’ was also where Salvation Mountain existed and he jumped on board and we were off.
A couple miles further up the road I got my first site of this somewhat mythical mountain. I dropped off my new friend and immediately turned around and parked at Salvation Mountain. I got out of my car and begin walking towards a group of about 5 people. There were all sitting in the back of a station wagon and I immediately felt like I was on the scene of a movie. I got a bit closer and introduced myself to this vagabond crowd and immediately recognized Leonard Knight right in the middle.
After a couple minutes of small talk I excused myself to head into Salvation Mountain alone and spent some time reveling at the sheer intricate magnitude of this eclectic but eroding structure. I was awe-struck, spooked out, inspired and fortunately left alone inside the mountain as the sun blasted through 50 year old car doors cemented to a spider web of telephone polls and pastel paints. It was amazing.
After I had time to snap a couple pictures, I walked out of the mountain and went back to sit with Leonard. Most of the others had left by this point except Mike, who was serving as his care taker. We started talking about the mountain, life, travels, the expansive greatness of the United States (Mike had done a cross country bicycle tour and had spent time on the road as well so we immediately connected). After about 30 minutes of enjoying the company of otherwise complete strangers and witnessing Leonard in his old age, I was offered a couple gifts of parting (a dvd, magnets, and a cold dr. pepper.. which is a luxury out there) and left ways.
What I took most from my day was exactly what happened in that final hour. I picked up a complete stranger whose poverty and transience might have made me (and many others I know) look the opposite direction and quickly be on my way, and through him I was able to make a special pilgrimage to Salvation Mountain and to meet Leonard and Mike… who, total strangers as well, ended up having a very neat and very real connection with me. I greatly enjoyed their company.
It is funny how easily I shut down when people look or act differently to myself out of fear, laziness, whatever… I do it all the time. But from the people I met in the slabs, in Niland, Mecca and Joshua Tree I realized that people are so often just looking for a friend or someone to talk to.. just like me.
I took off shortly after that for the long drive home. It was cleansing, inspiring, and rejuvenating. I am thankful for things like Salvation Mountain that exists as a fragile entity in the midst of a relentless and harsh desert climate- as it reminds me of how pure and tireless one must be to achieve what they love.